In this image (click to enlarge), the statue has a very obvious blue edge to it and not even Lightroom could fix this. The solution is to open the image in Photoshop and to fix it there.

Step 1

Duplicate the background layer by choosing Layer > Duplicate Layer.

Step 2

For this image, because the problem area is so distinct and the edges are so crisp, the easiest solution is to make a selection of the portion of the image to fix and then apply a fix to it. Using the Quick Selection tool I made a selection of the sky. Save it as a selection using Select > Save Selection and give it a name.

Step 3

Now enlarge it so the selection covers the problem area. I used Select > Modify > Expand and added enough pixels to select over the problem area. How many pixels will be variable – on a high resolution image you’ll need a bigger value than on a low resolution image. I used 30 pixels on this large image.

Step 4

Now you need to subtract the first selection you made from this new selection so you end up with just the blue edges selected. To do this, choose Select > Load Selection and select the selection you just saved. Set the Subtract from Selection option and click Ok.

Step 5

You now have the blue area selected so click the Add layer mask icon at the foot of the layer palette to add a mask to this layer. This isolates the blue area in the image.

In this case the simplest way to the problem is to desaturate the top layer so the blue disappears. To do this select the top layer, choose Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation and adjust the Saturation down until the blue goes – you can do this on the Master channel or just the Blue and Magenta channels or wherever you find the color problem is residing.

You could also fix the problem using a Curves adjustment and select the Blue channel and adjust it. The exact fix is going to depend a lot on what image data that is affected by the color halo – you need to remove or desaturate some of the blue but keep as much of the remaining image data intact and correctly colored as you can.

Step 6

If the edge of the fix is too harsh, you can blur the mask layer by selecting the mask thumbnail and choose Filter > Blur > Gaussian blur.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

How to Fix Chromatic Aberration in Photoshop

One of the hardest things for a new Lightroom user to work out how to perform is a simple image resizing. Look as hard as you like and there simply isn’t a resize menu command.

There is, of course, a way to resize images and it is done as you Export them from Lightroom which makes sense when you know how Lightroom works but if you’re a new user it’s just plain confusing.

So, here’s how to batch resize in Lightroom:

Step 1

Select the Library module and select the images to export. Choose File > Export.

Step 2

The Export dialog gives you a series of choices for the exported images. Start by selecting where the exported images should be stored. Choose either a specific folder or the same folder that the originals are stored in.

To place the images in a subfolder of your chosen folder, select Put in Subfolder and type the name of a new subfolder to create. If you want the exported images to be available in Lightroom, select the Add to This Catalog checkbox. From the Existing Files dropdown list, choose what to do if files of the same name appear already in the selected folder.

Step 3

From the File Naming options select what you want your files to be named.

For example, selecting Filename will give the files the same name as the original images. Custom name - Sequence lets you give the files a custom name and Lightroom will add a sequential number to each file. Type the Custom Name in the Custom Text box.

You can also select Edit from the dropdown list and create your own file naming template.

Step 4

In the File Settings area, select the export format such as JPEG for the web and the Quality - the higher the quality, the larger the file size.

In the Color Space area choose sRGB for the web.

Step 5

In the Image Sizing area set the file size and resolution. So you can, for example set the Resolution to 72 pixels per inch for the Web or 300 ppi for printing.

To size the images, enable the Resize to Fit checkbox. By selecting Dimensions you can set the final dimensions for each image such as 800 x 1200 and the images will be sized as close to this as they can be given their current aspect ratio. They won’t be larger than this and one measurement at least will be 800 or 1200. Lightroom does this regardless of whether the images are in Portrait or Landscape orientation so portrait and landscape images will end up the same sizes.

If you select Width & Height you can set the longest dimensions of each image in each direction. All images will be sized so their Width is no larger than the value you set and their Height is no larger than the value you set - the same width and height values are applied to portrait and landscape images so a Width of 400 and Height of 600 will give a larger portrait image than it will a landscape one because the landscape image can’t be wider than 400, forcing its height to much less than this.

The Long Edge and Short Edge options let you set the maximum length of the long or short edge of a photo - so Portrait and Landscape images are treated alike here.

If you enable the Don’t Enlarge checkbox you could have images much smaller than your selected dimensions if the originals are already under the selected size.

Step 6

You can apply sharpening by selecting the Sharpen For checkbox from the Output Sharpening options and select to sharpen for Screen, for example, and set a Low, Standard or High Value of sharpening.

In the Metadata area, select to add metadata if desired and from the Post-Processing options select what to do with the images afterwards, for example you could open the images direct in Photoshop or in an alternate editor or another application or show them in Windows Explorer.

When you’re done with the selections, click Export and the selected images will be exported.

Step 7

If you’ll use these settings again, save them to use next time by clicking the Add button at the foot of the Preset list, type a name for the preset, select the folder to add the preset to or just leave it set to User Presets and click Create.

In future, you can return to the Export dialog and select these options by clicking the Preset name. You can still make changes to the settings, if desired, and export a new set of images.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

How to Resize Images in Lightroom 2

When you’re photographing popular places this summer, one issue you’ll face is getting a clean shot of what you’re photographing. Too often popular places are filled with tourists so it’s difficult to capture a scene without getting lots of people in it too.

The solution is to recognize the problem when you’re shooting and capture a series of images and use the Photoshop Elements 7 Scene Cleaner tool to assemble an uncluttered scene later on.

When you are shooting take care to take two or more images each showing various elements of the scene uncluttered by people. It is best if these photographs are captured using a tripod but it’s not necessary to do so. What is most important is that you stand still as you capture all the shots - don’t move yourself or the camera as you take them and don’t change your camera settings as you photograph either - if you’re using a manual mode, use Aperture priority not Shutter Priority. Make sure to get every part of the scene without people in it.

Step 1

When you return home, download your images and open them in Photoshop Elements 7 so that they appear in the Project Bin.

Step 2

Click on the first image in the Project Bin and Ctrl + Click on each subsequent image in your series.

Choose File > New > Photomerge Scene Cleaner. When you do this, one image will be loaded in the Source area on the left and nothing will be in the right hand panel.

Step 3

The source image has a colored surround which matches the color surrounding the photo in the Project Bin so you know which image is which.

Drag and drop an image from the Project Bin into the Final box on the right - this will be the image you will work on to clean up - choose the best image to work with.

Zoom in to see the problem area clearly. Note that Photoshop Elements has aligned the images relative to each other.

Step 4

Now locate areas of the final image that need to be replaced using areas of the source image. What you’re looking for here are people in the final image you want to remove for which the source image can provide a clean ‘people free’ area.

Click the Pencil tool in the right hand panel and draw over the area of the source image to use. As you do this you see a colored overlay on the source image and the area you’ve selected will appear on the final image.

Adjust the pencil size using the [ and ] keys if necessary. Use the Eraser to remove the highlight if you select too much of the source image.

Step 5

When you have used all the image data you can from the first source image, click on another source image in the project bin and it will move automatically to the Source area replacing the current image.

Continue and select areas of the source image to use to remove problems you see in the final image.

Step 6

When you have the final image looking as you want it to look check to see if the pieces in the final image need blending or not. If they do, click the Pixel Blending check box in the right hand panel and the copied portions of the source images will be blended into the final image.

Click Done and you can then save the final version as a new file.

This tool is useful for removing tourists from around monuments, cars from roadways and other distractive elements in images where all you want is the scene unencumbered by people. The key is to recognize you have a problem when you’re shooting and capture multipe images to use.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Clean up a Scene in Photoshop Elements in 6 Easy Steps

You know how the Sport Photos look when taken by the Pros with those really expensive LONG lenses? The soft background and the sharp player? Well you can get the same effect with your current lens using the following steps in Photoshop!

The first picture you see is the Original Image - taken with our 75-300 zoom lens - almost all of the photo is “sharp” and in focus.

1. With your layer pallet OPEN - see Background - make a duplicate of this layer by using the shortcut - on a PC hold the Control key down and hit “J” - on the Mac - hold down the Command key and hit “J” - you will now see the duplicate layer above the background layer.

2. Using the Quick Select too from the tool box - select just the player - then hit Command or Control J to make a duplicate layer of just the player.

3. Layers- With the “Background Copy” (or Layer 1) in the layer pallet highlighted - go to Filter - Blur - Gaussian Blur - select the amount of softness you want in the background - keeping it realistic looking.

Once you have clicked OK - your photo should look like the photo below.

4. Now - with your “Background Layer” highlighted in the layer pallet, click on your “Eraser” in your Tool Box to the Left - set the opacity to around 30% and the Flow on 100% - size your brush to be about the size in the following photo - keep a soft edge and a bigger brush in the “Open” areas and make your brush smaller and sharper the close you get to the player. You can also change your opacity if you need to.

5. Start erasing - little by little - keeping the degree of softness in the background that you like. (Some people like it more out of focus than others.) Keep in mind the area directly near the player should be a little in focus also - when you are done your photo should look like the one below - finishedlookBe sure to “Flatten” all your layers before sending this off to your lab!

So there you go, I’ve just saved you from purchasing that Expensive - $3000 lens! You can do it all in Photoshop!

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Using Photoshop to Create the Illusion of Depth of Field with your Sports Photos

GIMP is a an attempt at answering the call for freely distributed image editing software.  While Photoshop is widely regarded as the industry standard for all kinds of image manipulation, it’s costly and overblown for the average photographers use (ok, so I let in a *little* comparison).  Yes, Photoshop has a ton of useful tools, support and plugins available, but it was never available for Linux operating system users until the introduction of Wine.  And it was those users of Linux who initially requested something to run on their operating system to manipulate photographs.

GIMP’s history, ancient history and prehistorycan all be read on the official Gimp website, so I won’t get deep into where it came from.  It’s now available for Linux, FreeBSD, MacOSX and Windows operating system.  Not only that, but it’s lightweight enough to fit on a USB jumpdrive via PortableApps.

GIMP’s program elements, or dialogs,  can float anywhere on the screen.  This gives the freedom to position, resize and customize the feel depending on the task at hand.  The screen shot above (click to enlarge) shows some of the dialogs all spaced out on a desktop.  You will notice there are two larger columns to the left and right of the main image, these are the docks.  If you perfer to have your dialogs tabbed, they can be placed in the docks to help clear things up.  Each dock comes with two panels each and the dialogs can be moved and arranged with drag and drop simplicity.  A list of the available tabs/dialogs is always at hand in each of the docks (pictured at right).

GIMP has many useful photo editing tools such as the ability to make quick crops, rotation, and color adjustments.  It also has more finite controls like curves, hue, saturation, channel mixing, layers, masking, sharpening, clone, heal and levels.  It can handle a wide range of file types including JPEG, TIFF, PSD (Photoshops native file format), GIF and more.   The program is also highly extendable and has a huge library of freely available plug-ins listed on the site.

To get started, you will first need to download GIMP depending on your computer operating system.  The download page can be found here.  After the download and install process starting GIMP will bring up the main image window and the docks previously mentioned.  If you are familiar with Windows or the general concept of windowed programs is familiar to you, GIMP may seem a bit odd at first, the way it just falls onto your screen without any kind of background to anchor it all together.  Depending on what you have going on, you may need to reduce the other programs on your computer to get a clear view.

Opening an image is as simple as clicking on File and then Open, then selecting the file you wish to edit.  You may also drag an image into the main window in GIMP or to the Dock in MacOSX to open it.  This includes images from a website or other program.  Now it’s time to start playing!!  First, take a look at the Toolbox pictured here at right. This is one of the main dialogs you’ll want to keep handy.  For a quick run down of the buttons, left to right, top to bottom:

• Rectangle Select Tool - Select a rectangular region
• Elipse Select Tool - Select circular regions
• Free Select Tool - Lets you draw around objects
• Fuzzy Select Tool - Selects areas based on like colors
• Select By Color - Pick a color, any color!
• Scissor Select Tool - Select using intelligent edge selection
• Foreground Selection Tool - The name says it all
• Paths Tool - Create and Edit Paths
• Color Picker - Set the color (those big black and white rectangles at the bottom of the toolbox) by picking from the image
• Zoom Tool
• Measure Tool - Cool for finding exact pixel distance
• Move Tool - Use this after a select tool to move image areas
• Alignment Tool - Align various layers with ease
• Crop Tool - Super handy and easy to use cropping
• Rotate Tool - Rotate a layer by exact degree or freehand
• Scale Tool - Make things bigger or smaller by percentage
• Sheer Tool - Adjust image for perspective on the sides
• Perspective Tool - Adjust front to back perspective, or keystoning
• Flip Tool - Make left be right
• Text Tool - Add some words any way you like
• Bucket Fill - Use this after a select tool to fill a selection with a given color
• Blend Tool - Fill with a gradient
• Pencil Tool - Painting using a hard edge brush
• Paintbrush Tool - More smooth than the pencil, just like real life!
• Eraser Tool - Remove areas using a brush
• Airbrush Tool - Just like the real thing, with less mess
• Ink Tool - Another way of brushing with more of a pen effect
• Clone Tool - Pick an area and duplicate it where ever you like! Good for remove dust spots/blemishes
• Healing Tool - Heals blemishes by synthesising what should be there
• Perspective Clone Tool - Two tools in one!!
• Blur/Sharpen Tool - Use a brush to blur or sharpen select areas
• Smudge Tool - Just like using your finger to smudge paint
• Dodge/Burn Tool - Brighten and darken select areas, same as in the old lightroom
• Foreground/Background Colors - This is where you set colors for many tasks
• Active Brush, Pattern and Gradient - Lets you know what you’ve selected

Whew!!  That’s a lot and it’s just one toolbox!  In future posts we’ll dive more into what some of these tools can do, but for now it’s time for you to experiment!  Find a photo you’ve been meaning to crop, highlight or clean up and see just how easy the program can be to use.  Once edits are done, saving the file is the same as any other program in your operating system.  Plus GIMP also has a large selection of file types to “Save As…” if you need to make that PSD a JPEG.

If you’ve never tried GIMP before and are looking for a good, free, powerful piece of photo editing software, it’s worth a look.  I’m not saying there aren’t other options out there, but if you’re looking to grow into a tool with a lot of advanced features, GIMP is worth your time.  Look for new GIMP tips, tricks and tutuorials coming to DPS soon!

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

GIMP - An Introduction

I recently took a trip to Europe with my parents, and throughout the whole trip, we only got one picture of all three of us, because I didn’t like the idea of giving my precious camera to a stranger to take one. Well, when I finally caved in front of the Eiffel Tower, the person who took it didn’t even bother to get the whole Tower in the shot with us! Realizing the shot was far from suitable for framing in its current state, I did a little creative Photoshopping and masked me and my parents in front of a picture I took of the Tower around the same time.

NOTE: This works best if both photos were taken from roughly the same distance, same perspective, same time of day, and same settings.

First, open up both images in Photoshop. You’ll need to take the one with the people in it and paste it as a new layer on top of your other picture (CTRL+A to select all and CTRL+C to copy, then CTRL+V to paste when you’re at the other picture). It’s important that your subjects be the correct size, or the Photoshopping will be too evident.

In my case, I ended up completely removing the botched Eiffel Tower from the image and just left me and my parents masked in front of the Tower, but in most cases, you will want to blend the two Towers (landmarks, etc.). To make the landmarks roughly the same size, lower the opacity of the top layer to about 50 so you can see both at once. Press CTRL+T to transform the layer.

Now you can move it around freely without having to select the Move tool. You can drag the corners in to make it smaller and out to make it bigger. It’s wise to make sure the height/width ratio is locked so you don’t distort the layer (click the chain link icon in the options panel up top). You may need to rotate the layer, by dragging the cursor in the direction you want it to go. When you’ve got them about right, click the check sign up in the options panel to accept the transformation.

Now it’s time to make a layer mask! Select Layer–>Layer Mask–>Reveal All. If you’re familiar with masks, this next part will be a cinch for you. If you’re a stranger to layer masks, sit tight because it’s not hard at all!

Make sure you have the Brush tool selected. Next, make sure black is your foreground color and white is your background colors (if not, just click the little icon next to your colors that resets them). To start you will want a very large brush with a hardness of 0. Paint away the top of the monument attempting to find a good place to blend the top and bottom layer seamlessly.

At some point, you’ll want to bring the opacity of the top layer back up to 100. If you can’t (I couldn’t), you’ll have to make the brush size much smaller (probably in the 50-150 range depending on the size of your image) and the hardness around 50-75. Then paint in as close to the people in your picture as you can.

At any time, you can undo any painting mistakes by pressing X (makes white your foreground colors) and painting back the layer, then press X again to continue masking. The beauty of this as opposed to taking any old pic of your family and sticking them in front of a monument if they weren’t really there is that the surroundings should make the masking much less obvious. When you’re all done you can choose to flatten your image and save it or save it as a PSD and come back to it later.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

How to Fix a Botched Tourist Photo in Photoshop

When I was young, my dad told me that if at first you don’t succeed you should try and try again until you do. In today’s post, I am going to tell you why this adage relates to editing photos by working with filters in Photoshop Elements and in Photoshop.

Step 1

Start by opening an image that you like, set the foreground color to white and the background color to black and choose Filter > Distort > Diffuse Glow. When you do this, the image will take on a rather nasty dark glow. There is pretty much nothing that you can do to this image that is going to make it look good. You can try to remove the graininess and glow and increase the clear amount to 20 but if you do that, you’ve effectively removed the filter effect. The short answer is it looks ghastly and you might be wondering just what you did wrong?

Step 2

Exit the Filter Gallery, switch the foreground and background colors so that black is now the foreground color and white is the background color. Reapply the filter using Filter > Distort > Diffuse Glow. This time the filter looks very different.

The explanation is that Photoshop Elements (and Photoshop) use the foreground and background colors when applying the filter. This time go ahead and crank up the Graininess and adjust the Glow Amount until you get a nice glow on your image. Adjust the Clear value to suit and click Ok. Now you have a very different looking result.

Understanding colors and filters

There are many of Photoshop Elements Filters that work differently depending on the current foreground and background colors settings. The Halftone Filter is one of these so, for example, if you have red and green selected the halftone pattern will appear in red and green - not always the desired look.

Instead, set the foreground to black and the background to white and apply the Halftone Filter using Filter > Sketch > Halftone Pattern. This time you’ll get something more like the result that you are looking for.

Switch black and white in the color swatch and try again - and the result is different and not so appealing.

What you need to know

The short lesson to take away from this post is that when you are applying filters in Photoshop Elements or in Photoshop the foreground and background colors that you have selected will have a big impact on how some of the filters work. In most cases the filters affected are the Sketch filters but others use the colors too.

Select the right color mix and the result is pleasing to the eye. Select the wrong color mix and you could be excused for thinking filters just aren’t for you.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Understanding Filters in Photoshop Elements

These days we face no cost for film nor for processing and printing. Digital is about as free as it can get!

But these odd, attractive shots can have a role in other photography.

Skies are the perfect example: if you have a collection of skies — dotted with clouds of course — you have an armory of shot material that can be used to liven up that special shot, spoilt only by a plain, bland, cloudless view of the heavens.

Take the image shown here of a couple sitting on a beachside seat, made with a Sanyo camera. Interesting shot, not least because of its limited colour palette, but missing that extra drama in the sky area.

First, we subjected the shot to some brightening work in software, to lift it. Then we pulled out a sky shot we had seen on a CD of stock images and loaded it up. Selecting and removing the sky area from the couple on the beach shot we then replaced it with the sky shot. The sky was felt to be a little too dramatic for the purpose so it was ‘dimmed’ before the composite image was dropped into the ‘Finished’ bin.

Tricks of the Trade

Sometimes you can help a picture with a lacklustre sky by just a little work in software; select the sky area and darken it or increase its blueness.

This is how we gave the picture of the Sydney Harbour Bridge (shot with an Olympus camera) a ‘push’ by selecting the blue and cyan hues in the original image and increasing their levels of saturation.

Keep looking when you’re out and about for filler shots: not only skies by seascapes as well, landscapes that stretch out to infinity. You never know when a shot can come in handy.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Blue Skies Lookin’ at Me

1. This image is extremely dark on the right - a problem caused by capturing the carousel horse in broad daylight on a very sunny day..

2. After adjusting the Exposure in Lightroom and tweaking the image using the small Recovery, Clarity and Vibrance sliders the image is still dark in areas where I would like to see more of the detail in the underlying image.

3. To bring in some light on the right, click the Graduated Filter tool and drag the selector in from the right edge of the image so that the midpoint of the filter is over the point where the problem ceases to exist (around the level of the carousel horse’s eye).

4. With the Effect Sliders visible, increase the Exposure and then, if desired, adjust the Brightness and Clarity sliders. Click Close when done.

5. In many cases you will find the Graduated Filter gives better results than, for example, the Shadows/Highlights filter in Photoshop and it’s a lot less work.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Add a light Source in Lightroom in 5 Easy Steps

I’m all for using free software when available but at times it can be lacking compared to commercial counterparts.  I’m very pleased to report this is not the case with hugin.  Robust beyond my simple means, this program should be in every digital photographers virtual toolkit.  It’s easy to use, has a lot of room for manual modification and produces excellent panoramic images.

This post will center on the insanely simple task of creating a panorama from pictures shot with a Canon SD630 point and shoot camera.  While the program has many advanced features, I’d like to show just how easy it is to get started creating panoramas on your computer.  And one great thing about hugin is it works on Windows, Mac OSX and Linux!  Screen shots for this demonstration will be done on a PC.  Let’s get started!!

First, you’ll need to download hugin.  The download page can be found here.  After downloading, install the program according to your operating system’s instructions.  Upon starting up hugin (and clearing the hints pop-up) you will see the simplistic screen below. (click image for full size view)

It’s simple and ready to go out of the box.  Click “1. Load images….” and a file selection box will appear.  Simply click on the first photo in the panorama set, hold down <shift> and click on the last photo you’d like included.  Then click “Open” (I know, Windows is still backwards that way as you’re not really opening anything, just selecting).  Your images will be loaded and checked for lens type, camera type , focal length and focal length multiplier. 

Just a few steps left!! Click “2. Align….” and hugin will start a process to evaluate your images and find control points.  Control points are points found in an image that hugin can identify as mostly unique.  It uses these control points to match up photos.  In the 8 Guidelines post I mentioned an ideal overlap of 30%.  This is where that overlap comes into play.  The more overlap, the more control points hugin can match between the two images and correct for camera orientation or lens curvature.  This step is automated (and you can go back later to select or remove your own control points) and a new screen will pop up telling you how many points were found, like this:

Depending on a number of factors such as computer speed, file sizes and location, number of images selected and available processor power, hugin will chug through your pictures one at a time.  At this point, if you have a lot of data to crunch, it might be a good time to go grab a bite to eat or get some other work done.  The panorama I am using as my example, which contains 12 images taken with a 6MP point and shoot, took about 15 minutes on a 2.8GHz Windows XP machine, for what that’s worth. 

When hugin is done, it will tell you how many points it can connect and if it thinks things will work well.  If there aren’t enough points, you may have to set some manually.  To do this, click on the “Control Points” tab, then select an image for each window (left and right) for which you want to match points.  If hugin has found some points already, you’ll be greeted with a very colorful window like this:

Now, click on any point on the left image.  Hugin will zoom in allowing you to more precisely position the crosshairs on your target.  Once elected, hugin will attempt to find the same spot on the image in the right window, displaying its best guess.  If that guess is not good enough, manually click and drag the crosshairs to the desired spot.  This zoom gets down to a pixel by pixel locating and can be very precise.  Click the “Add” button on the bottom right of the screen and your new points are added (you an also check the box  for “auto add” if you find hugin is doing a good job of matching your selections and don’t wish to click “Add” each time).

It’s time to click back to the “Assistant” tab and let hugin create your panorama!!  Click on “3. Create panorama….” and after you tell hugin where to save the finished file, you’ll get another screen letting you know the status of the process.  It can have some crazy stuff as seen below:

And that’s all there is to it!! Ok, there’s actually one more step depending on the output of the file.  In the most basic mode, you will still need to crop the image.  Initial output will look something like this:

I personally like having more control over my crop and don’t mind this raw stitch look.  It’s fairly simple to import the image into my favorite photo editing software and crop to my liking.  It also gives options to change things up a bit as seen in the final image options below:

And there you have it!  Panoramas made easy and free!  Hugin has a wealth of tools to help manipulate the stitch process including the ability to auto level for exposure and angles.  Luckily the folks who have worked on hugin have also put out a good users manual, located here, that will help explain the ins and outs of all the tabs and tools in hugin.

If you’re looking for further encouragement on what hugin can produce, check out the flickr tag hugin for over 14,000 examples!

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Creating Panoramas With hugin Photo Stitcher