Image by Stephen DesRoches

During the 1980’s, I was the Canon USA Service Manager in charge of setting up and running their Refurbishing Center in New York. For 5 years, I worked with other Service Departments to establish procedures and standards related to refurbished equipment. Though we dealt with more than photographic equipment, it will be the focus of this piece.

Where does the equipment come from?

The majority to be refurbished equipment are retail returns. These returns are usually because the buyer or gift recipient can’t get equipment to work for them! (Seriously) The other source of gear is from retired in-store demo units. In both cases, the equipment is usually in perfect running order, possibly with slight cosmetic issues. No matter how good their condition though, they are no longer “New”, and can’t be sold as such.

This is where refurbishing comes to the rescue of the manufacturer and retailer, putting the equipment into a salable state so they can get their investment out of them. In the process, the buyer benefits with a price break.

How is the equipment serviced?

Camera Service standards are more stringent than the Manufacturing Standards of new product coming off the assembly line. Each piece of equipment is tested in a standard manner and adjustments are made when and if required. Depending on the cost involved, more involved repairs will be undertaken to permit the equipment to pass Quality Control. In rare cases, equipment has cosmetic damage that warrants the replacement of external parts. At the end of the repair the piece of equipment is readied for packaging and sale.

In a majority of cases, all original accessories are included with refurbished equipment.

Warranty

There is a different Warranty with Refurbished equipment. Be sure to read the details because there can be a couple different versions for the same model. The difference is usually the duration, making a significant difference in retail price.

Where can I purchase Refurbished products?

I know that Canon sells refurbished equipment at their eStore. Adorama always has an excellent selection of refurbished equipment. Finally, Refurbdepot specializes in all categories of refurbished equipment.

I hope my insights have been useful and that you will consider purchasing refurbished equipment in the future. If you do you’ll get a much better bang for the buck!

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Refurbished Camera Equipment: As Good as New if not Better

The 12.1 megapixel Pentax Optio W80 is being promoted by Pentax as their ‘most shock and waterproof digital camera ever’.

It is operational to depths of 16 feet for up to two hours at a time, is able to withstand drops of up to 3 feet, is dustproof and able to withstand temperatures between 14 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit.

Apart from it’s ‘rugged’ features the Optio W80 has a 5x optical zoom lens (28mm equivalent at it’s widest), a 2.5 inch LCD screen, shake reduction, face detection (up to 32 faces), 30 frames per second 720p movie mode, takes SDHC cards and has 33.7 megabytes of internal memory.

The W80 comes in Cardinal Red, Azure Blue and Gunmetal Gray.

Expect to see the Pentax Optio W80 in stores in July 2009 for $299.95. It is available at Amazon for pre-ordering.

The Official Announcement of the Pentax Optio W80 from Pentax

Pentax Announces Its Most Shock And Waterproof Digital Compact Camera Ever: The Optio W80

GOLDEN, CO (June 24, 2009)…The manufacturer that builds digital cameras to go boldly where none have gone before has announced the PENTAX Optio W80. More adventure-proof than ever, this latest PENTAX digital camera is waterproof, dustproof, coldproof, and now shockproof enough to withstand impact from a fall of more than three feet (one meter).

PENTAX first introduced dunkable digital cameras in 2003 to the delight of outdoor enthusiasts, travelers and families everywhere. Today, the PENTAX Optio W80’s waterproof design withstands depths of up to 16 feet (5 meters) to protect from rain and spills, as well as allowing full underwater photos and video for up to two hours. On dry land, the rugged, shockproof design protects against drops of up to 3.3 feet to protect the camera from hard use and occasional spills. Also featuring 12.1 megapixels, a 5X internal optical zoom (equivalent to 28-140mm), a slim one inch body, and a wide angle 28mm lens, the Optio W80 offers an expanded perspective that is ideal for landscape, group and more confined shots. With a PENTAX-developed imaging engine and a high-performance PENTAX zoom lens, the Optio W80 delivers brilliant, high-quality images with well-defined details. A Super Protect (SP) coating applied to the mineral crystal cover of the internal zoom lens helps repel water, grime and finger marks.

Other important features in the Optio W80 include a:

• Coldproof design that allows the camera to be used in sub-freezing temperatures of 14 degrees Fahrenheit (-10 degrees Celsius), ideal for cold weather activities such as skiing and snowmobiling.
• 2.5 inch LCD monitor that features anti-reflective coating, making it easy to view, even in bright sunlight.
• Widescreen, HD movie capture that records resolutions up to 1280×720 pixels at full-speed 30 frames per second.
• Fast Face Detection technology that sees up to 32 faces in 0.03 seconds, with Smile Capture and Blink Detection, for perfect portrait shots.
• Pixel Track Shake Reduction (SR) that ensures sharp images in any lighting condition, without adding high ISO noise. Digital SR and Movie SR are also available.
• Close focusing, Super Macro mode that brings out the details in even the smallest subjects as close as 1 cm (less than one inch).

Available in Cardinal Red, Azure Blue and Gunmetal Gray, the Optio W80 will be available in July 2009 for $299.95 USD. To help keep the Optio W80 fresh and at hand, PENTAX offers a custom designed clear protective skin ($16.95 USD) and a comfortable floating wrist strap ($20.00 USD). More information about the Optio W80 and these accessories is available at: http://www.pentaximaging.com.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Pentax Optio W80

Steve Buchanan is a commercial photographer in Maryland and a contributor on

Many of the photographers I know are gadget hounds. They love their toys. They love to talk about them, read about them, argue about them and drool over the ones they can’t afford. I’m not so much of a gadget hound. I have my share of gear, and it will occasionally (ok, regularly) spill out of the equipment room and into the rest of the house, but I’ve made a point to try and keep things simple in my business, and in my work. For those looking to get started in food photography I’ve compiled a list of equipment that I would recommend getting, in order.

1. Any Canon or Nikon DSLR.

I don’t care how many megapixels, or if it shoots video, or whether its full frame or dx sized. Just so you like it and you’re comfortable using it. I know Sony, Fuji, Pentax and others make perfectly good dslrs, but Canon and Nikon have the largest user base and accessory range, and that will be important to you some day. Also, when it’s time to upgrade, Canon and Nikon usually have a better resale value. My primary camera is a Canon 5D.

2. A Macro Lens

Manufacturer branded lenses are best, and of course most expensive. Most of the major aftermarket brands are fine (Sigma, Tamron) but do your research on those first and I’ve heard of some quality issues from time to time with aftermarket gear. I would not recommend the close up filters that screw into the front of a lens and allow you to focus closer. They’re terrible in terms of sharpness and flatness of field. My primary lens, Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro.

3. A Good Tripod

Since food photography is all about slowly building the image from test shot to test shot, a sturdy tripod is a must. One commonly overlooked spec on tripods is the minimum height when in use. I have several tripods but the one I use the most often is a Bogen/Manfrotton 3001 with a 3035 head. It’s a relatively light tripod and a heavy head, but I shoot in a lot of restaurants. Standard table height is 30 inches and sometimes I want to be right at that height. My larger, more sturdy tripods won’t allow me to get that low.

4. Homemade Reflectors

A trip to the art store will set this up for you. A couple half sheets of fomecore, some silver boards, a utility knife, some funtak and a couple of artists manikins and you’ve got yourself all that you need for making reflector cards and a means to keep them in place.

5. A Computer Workstation Capable of Shooting Tethered

Specifying a computer workstation setup is a whole other can of worms, but chances are you’re already working with one so the big thing to notice here is the ability to shoot tethered. I shoot Canon and EOS capture came with my camera. I don’t know if Nikon includes their Capture program or not but it’s worth getting if need be. Again, shooting food requires you to shoot, look, repeat. It’s a whole lot easier to evaluate your shots on a laptop screen than on that little lcd viewer on the back of your camera.

6. A Color Checker

Something like the Expodisc or a Macbeth color checker is crucial. I ALWAYS shoot a color chart on every shoot. This is even more crucial when using available light since available light rarely matches those preset white balances on your camera. Nothing looks less appetizing than a green banana.

7. Studio Strobes or Monolights

These can be fairly expensive, or relatively cheap. It all depends on how much you shoot and how hard you are on your gear. One key factor to keep in mind is the availability and diversity of light modifiers for your particular system. A typical studio setup for me contains 2 or 3 lights with fairly focused light modifiers like grid spots or snoots and 1 soft fill light, usually a softbox overhead or slightly behind.

You’ll notice that the strobes are at the bottom. It’s entirely possible to do some great shots with just available light and some basic gear. If you have the first three I think you’ve got all you need to do some top notch work. Sure, if you’re going to hang a shingle and start selling yourself as a pro, you’ll need more. But if you want to get started and learn your way around food photography this will get you moving. I think a lot of photographers use their lack of funds to buy really cool gear as a crutch - don’t.

From the Editor (Darren Rowse): Thanks to Stephen for this post. Of course his point on Canon/Nikon cameras is probably going to cause some debate (going on past experience). I’m more than happy for this debate to happen below - just please be civilized.

For the record - DPS loves great images - not any particular brand of camera. If you can take a great shot with a Sony, Pentax, Sigma or even a Kodak… that’s fantastic! Use what your finances, preferences and situation leads you to and keep shooting!

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

A Basic Food Photography Kit

Did you ever want to try wildlife shots, but the animals were scared by your presence? Did you ever want to do self portraits, but your IR remote couldn’t do the job? Real wireless remotes can help you, but they are an expensive piece of equipment. In this tutorial you will learn how to modify a wireless doorbell, that you can get in any home depot store or garage sale, to make your Canon EOS DSLR focus and release the shutter from a great distance.

Please note: I do not take any responsibility if your camera and/or you take any damage. Building the wireless control requires a bit of soldering, the soldering iron is hot and if you short?circuit parts you could destroy the doorbell. However, don’t worry if you never used a soldering iron before, if you follow the instructions carefully and handle the soldering iron with care any damage is very unlikely. You don’t have to worry about high voltages or currents, the bell and the camera use only batteries, you should avoid touching any parts anyway unless you have to.

1. What you need

• A small soldering iron (15 – 25W)
• Big tweezers or needle?nosed pliers
• Two pieces of wire, you can cut almost any piece of old wire you have
• A stereo cable with 2.5mm plug (Or a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter and old headphones)
• A MOC 3020 or MOC 3040 chip, ask the local electronics store, they’ll help you out
• A wireless doorbell, make sure it has an LED that is lit when the bell rings and a long melody

2. The Bell

At first you should test the bell, the LED has to light up when you press the button, and it is best if the LED stays lit for as long as you push the button on the remote. Open the bell and disconnect the speaker, you don’t want the animals be frightened by the sound, do you? Test the bell again, even if you disconnect the speaker, the LED should still light up.

Now disconnect the LED. If it has high legs, you can just cut if off near the LED, that’s the easiest way. If it is soldered directly to the board, you have to heat the solder spots on the other side of the board with your soldering iron and pull it out.

Take your MOC and look at the top, the legs facing down. There is a little marking, a small circle or a semi?circle imprinted in the case. In the photo below you can see the numbers of the pins I will refer to from now on. On the left side of the MOC between pins 1 and 2, there is a LED, similar to the one you just removed from the bell. The pins 4 and 6 on the right side of the MOC are only connected, if the LED in the left part is lit.

It gets a bit tricky now, so be careful. If you have soldered before, you can skip the following section.

Excursus: Soldering

Turn your soldering iron on and wait until it is hot. Meanwhile you take your piece of wire and remove the isolation on the one end. Now wrap the copper core of the wire around the part you want to connect it to. Put some solder on the tip of your soldering iron so it melts.

Now bring the solder onto the connection of the wire and the other part so it flows on the wire and the other part to get a good electrical connection. Repeat until the wire does not move anymore. Use the tweezers or pliers to hold the wire or the chip in place. Pull gently to test the connection.

You have to connect pins 1 and 2 to where the LED was before you cut it out. The anode must be connected to pin 1 and the cathode to pin 2, do not confuse them, it will not work the other way round. You should see which one is which from a small drawing on the board (see photo below). If there is no drawing, well then it is a bit of a guess. I suggest you only connect the wires without soldering until you know if you got it right. You can use two pieces of wire like I did, or you can connect the MOC directly to the board if you know what you are doing.

Be careful when soldering: Pins 1 and 2 and the wires on the board must not be connected in any way, don’t use too much solder.

3. The Camera

We will now work with the camera. Plug your 2.5mm cable into the cable release connector of the camera. Now cut the cable at the desired length (I suggest at least 4 inches) after the plug and remove the isolation. You should now see for separate wires, two of which are isolated again and two blank ones. Remove a piece of the second isolation as well. Make sure none of the wires are connected and turn your camera on.

One of the isolated wires connected to either of the blank ones will cause the camera to focus, the other isolated wire connected to a blank one will make the camera focus and shoot. This alone is an improvised cable release, should you ever need one. Now solder one of the blank wires to pin 6 of the MOC and the isolated wire that made the camera focus and shoot to pin *4*, or vice versa, it doesn’t matter here. You can now test it ? press the button of the remote and the camera should take a photo. If the camera focuses but does not shoot, try holding the button of the remote for some time until it does. Nothing happens? Most likely you switched anode and cathode of the LED ? fix that and it should work.

4. The Case

Put everything in the case of the doorbell, make sure nothing is connected to anything it should not be and cut a hole for the wire to the camera. I secured the cable with some tape for strain?relief.

Congratulations, you are done!

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

How to Make a Remote Shutter Release from a Doorbell [DIY SPECIAL]

It’s game day, people have come from miles around to watch the finals - there is lots of media hype and people are gagging for pictures country wide but the regular guy, Biff, is out sick - he has man flu and is in bed with a nice cup of chamomile tea. It’s a bright sunny day and you are on top of the world, the editor has met you at the ground and you have your press pass and the big bag of kit that he’s brought you from the kit room at the paper.

You’re pitch side with your two cameras and a veritable swagger of lenses… You’ve never had the chance to use this kind of gear before, but the editor tells you “If you play your cards right, son…” and you’re going to do the best you can possibly do! The final siren goes and the Cobram tigers have won the finals and the crowd goes wild! You’re off - 100 miles an hour, packing away your gear, getting your laptop out as you literally run to the press room - you’ve taken some of the best shots of your life!

As the “new kid” you’re stuck in a corner, full sunlight on your laptop screen - you can’t see a thing, but you do your best, you pump out fifty of your best images and do a little bit of post production on them and away they go, uploaded to the editor and every other person that you need to impress, you’ve had an amazing day… Until you get home and look at your shots again, the color is all out of whack, you’ve cropped out peoples head, there’s a streaker in one of your photos! All because you couldn’t see what you were doing! OPEN YOUR EYES!

Now, you may have a chuckle at my little tale of woe up there, but I have had this happen first hand and I have spoken to many pro photographers that would have killed for one of the new thinkTANK Pixel Sunscreen V2.0!

I was shooting the RedBull Air Race in 2008, I wasn’t press, I was staff so had almost all areas access - I had the ability to capture the pilots as they stepped out of their amazing aeroplanes right on the runway, however, as I wasn’t super sure of my ability I was shooting in RAW. I popped back across to where I had wireless access and there were no tables left to setup on, so I setup outside but every which way I turned I had some crazy glare coming from somewhere! I ended up throwing in the towel, I couldn’t see what I was doing so instead I went and watched as all the other photographers uploaded to their various press agencies.

This might not happen to you all that often, but are you prepared if it does? The thinkTANK Pixel Sunscreen V2.0 is a great little “tent” that folds up just like a reflector, I have mine with me now - I’m at Starbucks typing up my review and it’s not getting in anyone’s way. A well built tool that folds away just like a reflector and pops out when you need it, the product has openings where you would need them at the back and sides of where your laptop sits so that you can plug in your various cables, it has a rubberized non-slip base so your laptop stays where you put it and it also comes with an attachment that you can velcro on the top and literally have over your head in extremely bright conditions. There’s not much to say about the product - it does exactly what it says on the tin.

Compatible With: 12-17” laptops. 17” laptops may push out the sides slightly, but still works.

Product Includes:

• Pop out sun shield (attached)
• Removable dark cloth/head cover
• Removable clip

External Dimensions:
When Folded Flat:
14” Round Diameter x 1” (35 x 2.5 cm)

When Set Up:
14.5” W x 22” Hx 19.5” D
(37 x 56 x 49.5 cm)

Weight:
1.2 lbs. (.54kg

You can purchase the Think Tank Pixel Sunscreen V2.0 on Amazon for $69

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

thinkTANK Pixel Sunscreen V2.0 Review

‘It’s not a point and shoot and it’s not an SLR’ is their catch cry - so what is it?

The first thing that grabbed my attention about the Olympus E-P1 is that it’s got a very retro style (reminiscent of the Olympus Pen range of yesteryear) - but this is no retro camera. It’s got a 12.3 megapixel Live MOS image sensor (also found in their E-30 and E-620 DSLRs) and TruePic V image processor.

The E-P1 has a 3 inch LCD (230,000 pixels), live view mode for framing shots (you can get an external viewfinder as an optional extra - it mounts in the flash hot shoe), has face detection (up to 8 faces per shot), ISO of 100 to 6400, shutter speeds of 2-1/4000 (and bulb), 19 scene modes and intelligent auto mode.

The Olympus E-P1 also shoot video in HD - 30 frames per second at resolution of up to 1280×720 pixels.

The camera does not have a built in flash but you can get an external flash to fit into it’s hot-shoe.

It’s small - 4.8 x 2.8 x 1.4 inches and weighs just 11.8 ounces.

Other features include - In-body Image Stabilization, dust reduction, multiple exposures, digital leveler and a variety of in-camera creative features for manipulating both still images and video.

Lenses - this is an interchangeable lens camera and there are two to choose from when purchasing. Here’s the pricing details from Olympus (USD):

• E-P1 Body Estimated Street Price: $749.99
• E-P1 Body with ED 14-42mm f3.5/5.6 Zuiko Digital Zoom Lens Estimated Street Price: $799.99
• E-P1 Body with ED 17mm f2.8 with optical viewfinder Estimated Street Price: $899.99

The E-P1 will be available in stores in July. Pre-order one at Amazon here (prices listed at Amazon are cheaper than those listed by Olympus).

Here’s how the Olmpus E-P1 looks with the viewfinder or flash attached.

We’ve included the official announcement of the E-P1 from Olympus below.

Olympus E-P1 News Release

OLYMPUS UNVEILS A NEW ERA WITH THE E-P1: NOT A POINT & SHOOT. NOT AN SLR. IT’S A PEN. WHAT WILL YOU CREATE?

Experience Incredible Multimedia Creative Freedom Blended with Digital SLR Image Quality, HD Video and Stereo Audio in a Compact Camera Body

CENTER VALLEY, Pa., June 16, 2009 – A new era of digital imaging begins today with the launch of the Olympus E-P1. The world’s smallest 12.3-megapixel interchangeable lens system camera blends the high-quality still images of a digital single lens reflex (DSLR) with High Definition (HD) video, stereo Linear PCM audio recording and In-Camera Creativity within an ultra-portable body. The easy-to-use E-P1 expands your creative horizons and its diverse multimedia features offer something for everyone. Built for today’s visual generation who lead active lives online and offline, the E-P1 will make you rethink what you can do with a camera.

Capture More of the Life You Live

Shooting spontaneous images of your daily life usually means snapping small, grainy images with your cell phone or using a point-and-shoot if it’s handy. A DSLR delivers incredible image quality, but most aren’t compact enough to roam with you. Now, the E-P1 changes the game with a compact body that delivers the professional quality images of a DSLR without the bulk. Moreover, its sharp HD video capture and stereo audio helps you live a better-documented life because you’re carrying one portable camera rather than a DSLR, an HD camcorder and a high-end audio device.

You can share more of your life with the world when the E-P1 travels with you. Make your Facebook, MySpace, Flickr, YouTube, Twitter and personal blog postings unique by capturing and sharing more videos and photos. You can chronicle more of the life you actually lead, rather than just special occasions you prepare for, like weddings, holidays and birthday parties. Since it’s the only camera to offer in-camera art filters for both still photography and videos with high-end audio, even your everyday activities will look and sound amazing!

“The E-P1 is designed for the mobile, visual generation that lives active lives online and off, and its portability ensures that it will go with you wherever life takes you,” said John Knaur, senior marketing manager, Digital SLR, Olympus Imaging America Inc. “As someone who has shot with an SLR most of my life, I’m excited that SLR-quality images can be captured with a camera this compact and portable. The E-P1 truly allows you to capture it all with the highest still photo image quality blended with HD video, high-end audio, multiple exposure and creative art filters in one small, stylish camera.”

Innovation since 1959: The Olympus PEN

They say that the pen is mightier than the sword, and now the E-P1 takes self-expression to a whole new, powerful level. Olympus has a long history of miniaturizing camera technology. The first-generation Olympus PEN appeared in 1959 and led the way to high-quality images in a small package, matching SLR cameras’ performance of the era.

Today, Olympus utilized its miniaturizing and engineering expertise to create a slimmer body, removing the optical viewfinder and mirror box found inside a traditional DSLR, to create a small but high-quality interchangeable lens camera. By reducing its lens mount diameter, Olympus also enabled the production of smaller and lighter lenses to match the E-P1’s body size.

Beautifully Designed Stainless-Steel Body

The new camera’s high-end, stainless-steel body is easy to handle and carry, and has the styling and refinement of a precision watch. Its retro-chic look turns heads, from tech aficionados and camera buffs to the fashion-conscious and everyday point-and-shooter. Built to be solid, it fits comfortably in a jacket pocket or a handbag for a night on the town, or to take on any spontaneous adventure. The E-P1 lets you do more and go more places while capturing your life, thanks to its compact size – 4.75″(W) x 2.75″ (H) x 1.43″ (D) – and light 11.8-ounce body. Attention to detail is visible in every aspect of the camera’s retro-style metal body design, available in either silver or white with accompanying new small and lightweight Olympus M. ZUIKO Micro Four Thirds lenses: 14-42mm f3.5-5.6 (28-84mm equivalent) and 17mm f2.8 (34mm equivalent).

The new E-P1 offers many great features derived from the E-System, as well as many breakthrough innovations, including:

• Superior DSLR Image Quality
• In-body Image Stabilization
• Amazing 3-inch LCD
• Proven Dust Reduction System
• 12 megapixels with next-generation TruePic™ V
• HD video with high-quality stereo audio
• In-camera creative features (for still images and video)
• Multiple exposures
• Multi-aspect shooting
• Multimedia slideshows
• Digital leveler
• Magnified focus assist
• 18×18 metering modes
• Small accessories for small camera

Ultra-Compact Body Delivers Superior DSLR Image Quality

The E-P1 erases all doubts about whether a compact camera can take images that are equal to those taken by a DSLR, because it has everything you need to produce vibrant DSLR-quality images: a large 12.3-megapixel imager, In-body Image Stabilization, fast Imager Autofocus, the proven Olympus Dust Reduction System and the new TruePic™ V Image Processor.

As the first Micro Four Thirds camera from Olympus, the E-P1 provides the same image quality as current Four Thirds format E-System cameras because it has the same image sensor size as the E-30 and E-620 DSLR models, but in a much smaller body. This high-performance 12.3-megapixel Live MOS image sensor delivers excellent dynamic range, accurate color fidelity, and a state-of-the-art amplifier circuit to reduce noise and capture fine image details in both highlight and shadow areas.

Be a Mover, Not a Shaker

Any lens attached to the E-P1 will deliver blur-free images thanks to three modes of In-body Image Stabilization that compensate for up to four steps EV (exposure value). Mechanical Image Stabilization works to automatically compensate for camera shake in low light or when using a telephoto lens. And because the E-P1 is the world’s smallest interchangeable lens camera with built-in Image Stabilization, you’ll feel comfortable taking it on the road with you to capture the action.

Small Real Estate with an Amazing 3-Inch LCD View

What you see on the new camera’s 100 percent accurate, 3-inch full color HyperCrystal LCD is what you get. Consumers accustomed to composing and focusing using a point-and-shoot camera’s LCD will appreciate that the E-P1 offers the same easy, seamless experience when shooting still images or videos. With the new Live Control function, icons appear on the LCD, making it easy to compose, edit and shoot pictures or videos without stopping to access various menus. The E-P1’s fast Imager Autofocus in Live View also enables you to compose, focus and capture the shot quickly and easily without ever taking your eyes off the large LCD.

The LCD displays 230,000 pixels in vivid color and includes HyperCrystal technology, which offers many times the contrast of conventional LCD monitors for easier viewing in both preview and playback. It also provides a wide viewing angle of 176 degrees, which ensures that images can be composed from even the most obscure angles.

This Camera Leaves Others in the Dust

You don’t have to waste precious time worrying about dust ruining the perfect image; instead, spend more of that time shooting with the E-P1. The proven Olympus Dust Reduction System produces spot-free photos with the exclusive Supersonic Wave Filter™, a patented ultrasonic technology that vibrates to remove dust and other particles from the front of the image sensor, capturing it on a special adhesive membrane every time the camera is turned on.

Unleash 12 Million Pixels on Your Canvas

The E-P1’s Live MOS image sensor is complemented by Olympus’ next-generation TruePic™ V Image Processor, which produces clear and colorful photos using all the pixel information for each image to provide the best digital images possible. The new image processor is noted for accurate natural color, true-to-life flesh tones, brilliant blue skies and precise tonal expression; it also lowers image noise in photos shot at higher ISO settings (ISO 100 to an incredible ISO 6400), enabling great results in low-light situations.

What Will You Create with In-Camera Creativity in HD?

Olympus pioneered easy-to-use Art Filters for still images captured inside its E-System DSLRs, and now those same In-Camera Creative Features are built into the E-P1 with a fresh twist – they can also be applied to High Definition video recordings to take your videos to a new level of creative expression and put you in the director’s chair.

Your movies and YouTube videos will have the incredible clarity of HD whether Art Filters are applied or not. Just imagine how dramatic and unique your videos will appear with any one of the six in-camera Art Filters applied as effects: Pop Art, Soft Focus, Pale & Light Color, Light Tone, Grainy Film or Pin Hole. Whether you’re a videographer, documentarian or established director – or just want to shoot like one – Art Filters set your images and videos apart from the pack. Since they’re built into the camera, you can achieve dramatic results on the go without needing a computer or editing software.

Because the E-P1 is an interchangable lens system camera you have more creative options in composition for video capture, to add to your visual palette. You can attach any one of the new super-compact Micro Four Thirds lenses or, because the camera can accept many of the other Four Thirds Format lenses with an available MMF-1 Four Thirds System Lens Adapter, you can add anything from an extreme wide-angle fisheye lens to a super telephoto lens for a wide range of expressive options. All the while you will have more DSLR-like control over depth of field, focus, white balance and ISO.

What You See Is What You Get

When viewing the LCD in Live View, Art Filter effects and settings like white balance and exposure are viewable right on the LCD, and their impact is seen instantly on the display. This real-time monitoring offers amazing versatility and creative control, and users who apply a setting have instant gratification because what they see on the camera’s LCD is what they’ve captured. For musicians used to applying audio effects like reverb to their instruments before recording them, the concept of setting the E-P1 to capture precisely the kind of image they want before they press the shutter makes perfect sense. For imaging purists who want to shoot without filters, and apply them to unfiltered images inside the camera later, or just edit images back at their computers, the E-P1 provides these options and opens more in-the-field creative possibilities.

Mix It Up with Multiple Exposures

With the E-P1’s Multiple Exposure function available for still image capture you are free to tell a visual story your way, whether in a portrait, a landscape or a combination of both. The image capture options allow you to shoot one shot, then another and combine them in real time, or capture both shots separately and combine them in the camera later. Overlay your face on top of your pet’s face. Create an “identical twin” of yourself. Put the moon in the sky at noon. Your ability to manipulate space and time makes this new creative multimedia device a veritable time machine.

Frame Your Works of Art Inside the E-P1

You can often achieve greater photographic expression by framing a scene in a unique way. The E-P1 provides four aspect ratios that serve as masks to frame your image to the desired proportions, including: the standard 4:3 aspect ratio that is perfectly suited to an 8 x 10-inch enlargement; the 16:9 aspect ratio that will display your images beautifully on a widescreen television; and other popular aspect ratios such as 3:2 and 6:6. The Multi-Aspect Shooting further expresses your creative vision when combined with Art Filters and multiple exposures.

Stereo Audio Sounds As Good As the E-P1 Images Look

Like the innovative Olympus LS-10 portable audio recording device that puts the power of a recording studio in your pocket, the E-P1 features uncompressed 24 bit/96kHz Linear PCM recording capability to capture the rich sound quality of your scene. When you shoot with the E-P1, it’s like having a sound technician built into your camera to capture the nuances of the audio happening all around you. It has the versatility to record and play back in the WAV format and can record with its built-in stereo microphone. Whether recording audio while shooting a video or adding audio by recording a narration to your still images, the E-P1’s audio sounds as great as its images look.

Create Your Own Multimedia Slideshows with Stills, Video and Audio Inside E-P1

Content is king, and with the E-P1 you have your own portable kingdom of still images, HD video, and audio to remix at your command. In playback mode you can seamlessly mix stills and movies inside the camera to create a multimedia slideshow and dub in one of five built-in dramatic background music options to provide a soundtrack for your cinematic creation. Plug the E-P1 into any HD television with an HDMI cable and show off your masterpieces to your audience before the DVD arrives in stores.

As Easy to Use As a Point-and-Shoot with SLR-Quality Technologies

The E-P1 is equipped with 19 automatic scene modes for effortless picture taking. Standard scene modes like Night-Scene, Portrait and Landscape are easy-to-use solutions for everyday shooting. Capturing beautiful portraits is easy with the new ePortrait Mode. It enables you to smooth your subject’s face – all in the camera and before capture! Additionally, edits can be made post-capture using the ePortrait Fix mode.

Shooting scenes with both highlights and shadows can often be dicey because of the extreme contrast between dark and bright areas. The E-P1 addresses this challenge with Shadow Adjustment Technology that adjusts for extreme light variations and maintains visible detail in both the shadow and highlight areas of the scene. Now users can see and preview the gradation on the Live View LCD and capture images showing the shadow detail they saw. This feature is also accessible in the Edit menu after the shot has been taken.

The E-P1’s Face Detection reduces the chance of blurred subjects in images by recognizing up to eight people’s faces and the background, tracking the faces within the image area, even if people are moving, and automatically focusing and optimizing exposure for sharp, brilliant portrait pictures (ideal for large family or party group photos).

If you don’t want to change camera settings every time you’re shooting something different, then the E-P1’s Intelligent Auto Mode is for you. It automatically identifies what you are shooting (Portrait, Landscape, Night + Portrait, Macro, Sports) and adjusts settings to capture the best result depending on the situation. First-time users will enjoy this quick and hassle-free feature, which does the thinking for them and produces incredible images like a pro.

The New Super Control Panel with Live Control technology, along with the camera’s intuitive button layout, enables you to see both the image and the controls on the 3-inch HyperCrystal LCD, making the camera simple to use. The E-P1 records to SDHC media cards to accommodate large files including videos with In-Camera Creative Features and uncompressed audio.

Digital Leveler

The E-P1 is equipped with an internal Digital Level Sensor that detects the camera’s pitch and roll and indicates it on the control panel. This Digital Leveler is a tremendous benefit when capturing landscapes. Level the perfect coastline shot on your next tropical vacation without being tethered to a computer and editing software.

Magnified Focus Assist

To enable accurate manual focusing the E-P1 provides MF Assist Function and Magnification Display. In S-AF + MF or MF, the MF assist enables you to zoom up the central part of the image by up to 5 times by turning the focus ring. The Magnification Display lets you magnify the image on the LCD by up to 7X at the touch of a button. Additionally, if you use the dial, you can boost magnification all the way up to 10X for more precise manual focusing.

18×18 Metering Modes

This mode divides the image area into an 18 x 18 grid, metering each of the 324 separate cells to obtain optimum exposure. In addition to 324-division ESP metering, center-weighted metering and spot metering modes are also available.

Smaller Accessories for Small Camera

In addition to the new Micro Four Thirds lenses, Olympus also offers an optional Clip-on Optical Viewfinder for use with the Micro Four Thirds 17mm f2.8 (34mm equivalent) lens. The MMF-1 Four Thirds System Lens Adapter enables all Olympus ZUIKO Digital lenses as well as Four Thirds System lenses from Sigma, Panasonic and Leica lenses to attach to the E-P1. If you have Olympus OM lenses and want to attach them to the E-P1, that is possible with the MF-2 OM Lens Adapter. Additionally, an optional FL-14 flash unit, suitably small for the camera, adds more lighting versatility to your shots.

OLYMPUS Master 2 Software

Use the included Olympus Master 2 software (Mac and PC) to easily download images from the camera or other external device, such as a USB drive, and automatically organize them into albums and groups and by date. Develop high-quality RAW images, apply Art Filter effects, edit and print images. Update camera and lens firmware through the software and download additional menu languages. A direct link makes uploading your images and videos to YouTube™ easier than ever.

OLYMPUS Studio 2 (Trial Edition Included)

Extend the capability of Olympus Master 2 with Olympus Studio 2. In addition to the functions of OLYMPUS Master 2, this software includes a lightbox mode and selection marks for comparing and sorting multiple images. RAW processing is enhanced with additional controls for finer adjustments. The trial edition can be used for 30 days after installation. After the trial period has expired, a license key is required for further use.

Availability

The Olympus E-P1 will be available in July 2009. It includes E-P1 Body, USB Cable, Video Cable, Li-Ion Battery Pack (BLS-1), Li-Ion Battery Charger (BCS-1), Shoulder Strap, OLYMPUS Master 2 Software CD-ROM, Manuals and Registration card.

U.S. Pricing / Product Configurations

E-P1 Body Estimated Street Price: $749.99
E-P1 Body with ED 14-42mm f3.5/5.6 Zuiko Digital Zoom Lens Estimated Street Price: $799.99
E-P1 Body with ED 17mm f2.8 with optical viewfinder Estimated Street Price: $899.99

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Olympus E-P1 (Digital Pen)

Early last year when I bought my digital camera the sales assistant told me that it had different ‘metering modes’. At the time I was too embarrassed to ask what that means and bought the camera without knowing. It took me a while to work it out but once I did I realized that it was really important. I thought I’d write up what I learned.

Learning to use the different metering modes on your camera is a skill well worth knowing as it puts in your hands more control in how your camera approaches capturing a particular scene.

Every time you point your camera at a scene it needs to take a guess at what is important to you in the picture and which part you want to be exposed optimally. The metering mode you have your camera set to will signal to the camera how you want it to approach this task.

Let me explain further by highlighting three main metering modes that you’ll find on many digital cameras (note - not all cameras offer this choice although all DSLRs do and many point and shoot cameras do):

1. Overall Metering (Multi Segment/Zone Metering)

In this mode the camera attempts to take into consideration everything in your frame. Most cameras will have numerous metering zones around the frame (for example the Canon EOS 5D has 35 points that it takes into consideration).

It assesses overall lighting from all these zones and takes a best guess by averaging them to decide on how to expose the shot. This mode is the one I used to leave my camera set to most of the time and it did give great results. However, at times the camera guesses wrong and it’s useful to know how to use the other metering modes below to give your camera a little more information about what you’re trying to achieve.

2. Spot Metering

This mode tells the camera to do it’s metering from a very small ’spot’ in the scene. Instead of taking information from all 35 zones, the 5D hones right in on one - ignoring all others. This is a very useful mode for tricky lighting conditions where the whole scene is either darker or lighter than the point that you want to be exposed correctly.

For example in a back lit situation where you’re taking a portrait of someone whose face is a little too dark. Without spot metering in this situation you might end up with a silhouette and not be able to make out the features of your subject. Spot metering gives you very exact control when there is a very specific (and small) part of the scene that you want to get right.

3. Center Weighted Metering

On the spectrum between overall metering and spot metering we find the Center Weighted Metering mode which takes a little from both ends of the spectrum and tells the camera to focus it’s metering decisions upon the center of your image (although a wider area than spot metering).

In Center Weighted Metering the camera will take information from numerous metering points around the frame but will give more weight to those in the center. Like spot metering, this is good to use in tricky lighting situations where you don’t need to identify very small parts of the image to meter on.

I’m still learning about Metering Modes and how to effectively use them however I do know that since venturing a little more out of ‘Auto’ and experimenting with the above modes that my photography has improved a lot. If you’ve got any other tips to add to what I’ve written I’d love to learn from you.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Introduction to Metering Modes

I’d heard about the W700ds when it first was announced - it was hard not to take notice with some of the features in the specs sheet:

• 17 inch 1920 x 1200 screen
• a secondary 10.6 inch 768 x 1200 slide out screen (the DS stands for ‘dual screen’)
• built-in 5? Wacom digitizer
• Intel Core 2 Extreme 2.53 ghz
• 4 GB RAM
• 64 bit Vista
• 460gb hard disk storage
• NVidia Quadro FX3700M Video Card

Disclaimer from a Mac Guy

Lets start this mini review with a disclaimer - I’ve not used a PC for years. I’m a Mac fanboy - to the point that this is my first experience of Vista! This of course impacted my use of the W700DS - but I’ll try to be neutral!

Also worth noting is that I’m reviewing the W700 DS more from a usability point of view than writing a hardcore tech review. There are plenty of other reviews of this machine around that drill down more into speed tests etc - let me just tell you about how I found using the W700 DS in everyday use.

First Impressions of the Lenovo W700DS

This is no small laptop! Unboxing the W700DS the first thing I noticed before even opening it up was the size and weight of this machine. The first thought that came to mind was that I didn’t think I’d be taking this laptop far away from my desk and certainly wasn’t going to spend a lot of time with it on my actual lap or using it on a flight any time soon.

This is unmistakably a ThinkPad machine - it’s black, square and solid looking. It weighs in a 4.96 kg (around 13 pounds). Closed up it’s around 5cm (2 inches) thick. The word ’sexy’ doesn’t really come to mind.

It has a full sized keyboard with full numeric keypad, trackpad with 5 buttons, track stick in the center of the keyboard, Wacom tablet built into the front right hand area of the machine and a digital pen to use it.

Overall it’s big and it’s heavy but with the secondary screen extended it’s an impressive looking machine that is bound to turn heads.

Features Reviewed

Main Screen

The main 17 inch screen is fantastic. Colors were excellent, brightness was great and visibility even looking from off to the side was good. This is a high quality screen.

Secondary Screen

The 10.6 inch secondary screen adds about 40% more screen real estate to the W700 (the combined screens can show up to 3200×1968). While not as large as a secondary screen on your desktop this is handy if you are out and about with your laptop.

I used it mainly to run email and other communication programs while working on main documents on the main 17 inch screen. In photoshop I positioned toolbars on the smaller screen leaving the main screen for the image I was working on.

The smaller screen is in the portrait format while the larger one is landscape - I quite liked having those two different formats.

Once extended the secondary screen can be angled in slightly or left to extend out flat from the main screen. I used it angled in as it improved brightness and image quality. At times I did worry a little about having the screen extending out beyond the computer - while it seems solid it is in a bit of a vulnerable position to anyone walking past the right hand side of your computer (including almost 3 year olds who go running by not expecting to see their father’s Gmail account open before them).

The image quality of this smaller screen is not as good as the larger primary one but it is a useful addition to have when you need the extra screen real estate.

Keyboard/Touchpad

Roomy is the word that comes to mind as one uses the keyboard. The footprint of this machine is significantly bigger than my Macbook Pro.

Small is the word that comes to mind as I used the touchpad. My MPB’s touchpad must be 2-3 times larger than the W700’s.

The other thing I’ll say about the layout of this machine is that I felt a little off-center using it. The number keypad off to the right is handy - but it does throw the rest of the keyboard off to the left a little. That’s where I spend most of my time so I constantly had a feeling of having my hands off to the left a little.

Once I got used to the differences in size I found both the keyboard, touchpad and pointing stick to be comfortable to use and responsive - although…. the touchpad really is small.

Wacom Digitizer Pad

I was particularly looking forward to testing the 5 inch Wacom digitizer. Having not used one before there was a bit of a learning curve to go through but overall the experience was quite good and I enjoyed the option to use the digitizer in photoshop.

I found it very responsive (almost too responsive at first) and the only beef I had was that at times it felt ‘wrong’ to have my right wrist leaning against it as I typed as it is placed directly in front of the keyboard area.

Other Features

Color Calibration - this will be important to many readers of DPS who are looking to make sure the colors in their images are accurate. The calibration process was simple and showed improvement when I ran it. It uses Pantone’s Pro Color Control software and a small sensor integrated into the palm rest of the machine. To run it all you do is start the calibration program, shut the laptop wait around a minute for three beeps and you’re done. The only downside is that it’s just the primary screen you’re really calibrating here not both.

Webcam - I only used this once to do a call on skype but it worked seamlessly and the person I was chatting with remarked that I looked good (not sure if that was because of the camera or if it was just a good hair day. It’s only 1.3 megapixels so you won’t be taking any shots or video that are too amazing - but it being attached to an almost 5kg machines kind of rules that our anyway.

Connectivity - The W700DS has plenty of options when it comes to connectivity with five USB ports, VGA, 1394 FireWire, CF card reader, Express 64, dual-link DVI, DisplayPort, 7-in-1 card reader, ethernet and wireless.

Fingerprint Reader - I didn’t use it but if you’re concerned about security a useful feature.

Performance

As mentioned above - I did not run any speed tests on the W700 DS. That’s not my style so I wanted to keep this review authentic.

What I can tell you is that the W700 DS is fast and barely skipped a beat when running a variety of programs at once.

The words ‘Grunt’ and ‘Power came to mind as I used the W700DS.

Start up time was good, I’m yet to see any errors or crashes - all’s been smooth sailing for me and the only problems I’ve had have had more to do with getting used to using Vista as a Mac user.

The only thing I did notice with performance was that using the W700DS on battery alone only lasted a little over and hour and a half. I suspect this could have been improved by not using the secondary screen while not connected to the power outlet.

My Verdict on the W700DS

My lasting impressions of the W700DS are positive. It’s a powerful machine with loads of innovative features - many of which will be suited to serious photographers.

It’s not the cheapest laptop going around (Lenovo currently have them on starting at $2869 USD on their website) and may not be high on portability but if you’re looking for a mobile workstation with grunt and features like secondary screens and the built in Wacom digitizer then this is a machine you’ll want to seriously consider.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Lenovo ThinkPad W700ds Review

You wanted to get serious about digital photography and the only way you believed was to get a reflex digital that takes interchangeable lenses, has a big fat, resolution-full CCD and not only looks like a pro camera but has the controls like one.

Serious amateur photographers and ambitious semi pros all crave a dSLR and it’s true, because this level of equipment demands great skill in its use and brings with it a high potential of success in image making. But the kit you bought is only the beginning.

Steady

Most of the new crop of dSLRs feature image stabilizing, either built into the body or the lens. This will help in most handheld shooting situations but if you want to move into the more demanding areas, such as carefully shot portraits, macro subjects, long lens action — even landscapes — a set of legs is a big help.

Although every digital camera offers a range of ISO sensitivity settings, the higher figures — like ISO 1600 and more — are useful in catching low light shots but a higher setting brings with it the likelihood of increased noise in the image.

I personally like to shoot most daylight shots at ISO 200 and at this figure can usually get A3 prints with almost nil noise in the picture. If I’m using ISO 200 and working outside, capturing landscapes, especially with the lens set to a longer focal length I lug a tripod along, not only to access a lower ISO setting but because the final image will be that much sharper. It’s a pain, but the difference between camera-steady shots and handheld is startling. The less movement at the camera end, the sharper your images will be.

There is a wide variety of tripods. The heavier the tripod the less chance of vibration. A cross-braced design that links the central column and the legs adds to the steadiness factor. A tripod with fewer leg sections adds to the general steadiness.

Check out the height that suits you, with generally those higher than 1.5 metres a good start. Take a good look at the feet: rubber feet will generally make a stable connection with the ground; they also don’t slip on — or damage — hard surfaces like polished floors; a rising/falling central column makes precise shot lineup much easier; look carefully at the method used to adjust leg height — some models are a real pain.

If you’re into bush photography, take a careful look at the weight and size. A day or days hiking with a bulky and heavy tripod is a burden you don’t need. Maybe you should consider a carbon fibre tripod; they’re pricey but they’re much lighter; tripods made with titanium and/or magnesium are also light and not quite as expensive as carbon fibre.

So you’ve got legs. Most tripods are sold with a head attached but you may prefer to go for a higher price level and select a tripod plus a separate head.

In tripod heads there are two ways to go: pan-and-tilt and ball-and-socket heads. The first gives you camera adjustment in three planes: tilt up or down; pan left or right; tilt left or right. Ball-and-socket heads afford adjustment in all directions.

My own preference is for pan-and-tilt heads; with these you can adjust one plane of movement at a time. A big help also is a spirit level that assures your shots are level. This type of head is also ideal for shooting panorama sections as it can be set up to maintain level ‘tween shots.

Tripods specifically designed for video shooting are not ideal for stills shooting as they mostly exclude any means to adjust lateral level.

Top brands are: Gitzo, Manfrotto, Slik, Sony, Velbon, Vivitar.

The tripod is older than photography itself but even with this venerable shooting aid, technology has moved on. If your needs are out of the ordinary, take a look at some of these off the wall approaches.

Ever heard of the Wimberley Plamp?

Resembling a snake, this gadget clamps to the tripod leg, at one end, and can hold an object at the other — at least 56 cm away — attached to a light clamp. The aim is to steady the subject; it would be ideal for in the field macro work or to hold a light reflector.

Another device, out of left field, is the Joby Gorillapod. This is not unrelated in appearance to the Plamp. A tripod in concept, the three rubber-coated legs are flexible and can bend and rotate 360 degrees to form a shape which best suits your purpose. It could even be wrapped around a support.

Three models: weights vary from 46 grams to 240 grams and can support cameras from 275 grams to 3kg in weight.

New on the scene is Sunpak’s Flexpod Gripper, with flexible legs to wrap around just about any suitable object and providing versatile mounting solution for your camera or flash. It has non-slip let segments to grip tight and won’t slip when properly wrapped around most dry surfaces.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

STEADY ON! [An Introduction to Tripods]

Having a larger build, I have always disliked the straps that come with various camera bodies. I find them too short, too uncomfortable and just cheap feeling. I also dislike the having the camera model number largely displayed making me a walking billboard for Nikon. People often approached me at weddings I was shooting to discuss this feature or that and even talk about how they’ve upgraded beyond what I was using. I always smiled but wished I could focus on what I was there to document.

When I came across the R-Strap, I thought this might be the very thing I needed but didn’t know I was missing. Well, it has arrived and here is my review.

The R-Strap by BlackRapid, a Seattle based company. Being very simple and elegant in design you have to wonder why straps weren’t made this way from the beginning. Essentially, it allows you to sling your camera down to the hip level instead of having it hung around the front of your neck. My initial reaction was that it was very well built. Upon opening the package, I was impressed by the RS-4’s design. It had comfortable shoulder padding and even a small zipper to store my extra memory card or flash gels.

The stainless steel connect screw called the R2 also looked solid.

One of the reasons I was looking forward to the R-Strap was for comfort. When I photograph weddings, having the strap around my neck gets old very fast. I usually end up not even using it, only to have it get in my way as I switch from landscape to portrait shots. Not having it around my neck, I’ve also had a few close calls with guests bumping into me and almost losing my grip of the camera. All of these issues I think have been solved with my new strap. (Can you tell I’m excited about it?)

I didn’t have a wedding scheduled so I decided to walk around Old Town Alexandria in Northern Virginia and see how I felt at the end of the day. It was no problem all day. I shot a quick demo with my point and shoot while I was there which can be found below. Go easy on the video, remember I’m a photographer not an actor or cinematographer.

In the end, I was very impressed with this new system and will not be using my old strap any longer. In fact, after seeing on the Black Rapid website that two straps can now be coupled together for double camera slinging power, another R-Strap is on my long list of future purchases. The video below shows the double strap in action. 4.5 out of 5 stars. (The minus .5 is simply because with the strap connected, it’s not as easy to set my camera on a flat surface for a quick shot. I first have to unclip the strap. I know it’s a small issue.) It can be purchased at Adorama here. The older RS1 Strap is available at Amazon.

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

R-Strap by BlackRapid - Camera Strap Review