Do you know whether these common skin care statements are true or false? Take the quiz and find out if you’re a beauty genius or should go back to cosmetics class!

Beauty IQ Questions

1. Good genetics is the most important factor in how your skin looks.
2. As you age, you should exfoliate more often than when you are young.
3. A necessary step in skincare is using a toner or freshener after cleansing.
4. If you have sensitive skin, you should avoid using products that list “fragrance” on their ingredient labels.
5. Natural ingredients are always better for your skin than synthetic or chemical ones.
6. When choosing foundation, you should try the shade on your neck, not on your face.
7. Once you find a makeup look that works for you, you should stick to it.
8. Cosmetic puffs or pads are all the same, so buy the cheapest.
9. Reduce pore size by washing with piping hot water and rinse with icy cold.
10. It’s more important to use sunscreen everyday than only when on vacation.

Answers

Question 1. False. 40% of skin’s appearance is due to genetics, while 60% is under your control. You can prevent problems and improve skin texture by using daily sunscreen, eating a healthy diet, engaging in regular physical activity, limiting stress and avoiding smoking.

Question 2. False. When you are young, cell production is at its peak, so more new skin cells are produced. It’s important to clear away old, dulling cells by exfoliating more often to leave the new, younger cells on the skin’s surface. As you age, cell production slows down and it’s more important to keep the skin well-moisturized and viable. In your twenties, exfoliate with a scrub containing grains twice a week. In your thirties, once a week; once a month in your forties. After that, use a damp 100% cotton face cloth, and that should be all the exfoliating “muscle” you need.

Question 3. False. Toner, freshener, astringent or clarifying lotions are all pleasant-feeling and smelling inventions of marketing departments. Nice to have, but not necessary. Their conception came about when marketers noticed that women were not rinsing their faces well, so toner became a product to rinse away the last traces of cleanser or soap. The cooling sensation from alcohol or witch hazel convinces you it’s “working,” but it doesn’t provide any improvement in skin health. Instead, spend time rinsing skin thoroughly with plenty of warm water.

Question 4. True. However…there are many ingredients that are just as irritating to sensitive skin but do not require the word “fragrance” on the label, and these are listed as essential oils. Essential oils, while natural, may mask the unpleasant odor of other ingredients and can be marketed in a product designated as “fragrance-free.” So check the label carefully for essential oils (like lemon, lavender or almond oil) and if a fragrance-free product has a discernible aroma, avoid it if your skin is sensitive.

Question 5. False. For the most part, natural ingredients are wonderful, except in the cases where technology has made significant improvements. For example, an exfoliating scrub can contain natural almond grains, but the newer polyethylene grains that are in use today are rounder and smoother and exfoliate in a much gentler manner. Almond grains may have sharp or rough edges that cause irritation and scratching. So natural isn’t necessarily better.

Question 6. True. Match foundation to your neck, so as not to have that pesky “borderline” between your face and neck, and your foundation will look perfectly natural. When testing for your shade, apply a small amount just beneath the jawline, and don’t blend it well. Even unblended, the shade swatch should match your skin perfectly and should not be apparent. If it is, you haven’t chosen the right color, so give it another try.

Question 7. False. I’m not going to say you should change your look every week and follow the latest trends, but periodically, and especially as you age, you should reevaluate what you’re using to care for your skin and what makeup colors and application techniques you use. Take a good critical look at what shades are in your cosmetics bag and how you apply them. You might even want to take a stroll through a cosmetics department to see what new colors are on display and what the models in makeup ads are wearing for some ideas. (Think about it - haven’t you ever seen a woman whose look seems stuck in another time? Don’t let that happen to you.)

Question 8. False. Cosmetic puffs and pads are not created equal. They can be made of polyester or other synthetic fibers that, over time, can cause microscopic tears in the skin or even lead to irritation, especially if you use them to remove eye makeup. Instead, be sure to look for 100% cotton and the cotton logo to be sure you are purchasing the most natural, most gentle product for your skin.

Question 9. False. Pore size is determined by heredity, skin type and age, and nothing will reduce them. Any product claiming to reduce, refine or diminish the size of your pores is not being truthful. There are products that may make your pores appear smaller, but this is purely cosmetic. Also, piping hot and icy cold water will do nothing for your pores except irritate them and redden your skin. Stick with warm for washing and rinsing.

Question 10. True. Over time, exposure to ultraviolet rays results in more cumulative damage to skin than a week in a tropical climate. C’mon – you’ve heard this song before, ladies. Repeat after me, “Sunscreen, EVERY DAY!”

I’d love to hear about your Beauty IQ. Did these make you think twice about some of the myths you’ve heard?

[Photo by MattSeppings]

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1: Washing Your Face

If you’ve done a good job of cleansing your face the night before, no need to lather up your face with soap or cleanser and then spend time rinsing thoroughly. Simply splash your face with warm water and massage lightly to invigorate. Or for an even faster wash, simply spray your face with a hydrating mist.

2: Shaving Your Legs

While in the shower, apply hair conditioner to your hair and apply extra conditioner to your legs. While your hair is being nourished, you can shave your legs. The extra moisture that conditioner contains will eliminate the need to use additional body lotion on your legs afterwards.

3: Nourish Your Skin

After washing, no need to towel dry your face. Take advantage of every last drop of the water that’s already hydrating your skin. Apply a nourishing serum and your moisturizer (with sunscreen for daytime) to damp skin. Don’t forget your neck, upper chest area and tops of hands (anywhere skin is exposed). Added bonus? By leaving the face damp, you will end up using less product, too.

4: Don’t Forget Your Eyes

Since applying sunscreen around the eyes is a no-no, make sure you use a good tinted eye cream. Pat-apply the cream with your ring finger. (Since this finger is weakest, it applies the lightest, least wrinkle-causing pressure.)

5: Hair Drying

Let hair air-dry naturally while you apply your makeup, then finish up with a quick spot-blow-dry. This will leave your hair in better condition, because it won’t be subjected to excessive heat damage. (Make sure to have your hair cut in a style that doesn’t require thirty minutes of styling, too.)

6: A Better Foundation

Most women don’t need foundation. Skip the lengthy application of a liquid or cream base, and use a fluffy brush or a natural sponge to apply powder. Tap the brush or blow on the sponge to get rid of excess product before applying.

7: Be Cheeky

Smile and swipe blush on the apples (fullest part) of the cheeks for a natural, healthy glow.

8: Perfect Lips

When lining lips with a lip pencil to prevent lip color migration, no need to use a sharply pointed pencil – a slightly blunt one will prevent you from having to be painstakingly precise, or sharpening. Use long-wearing lipstick to fill in, and you won’t spend time reapplying.

9: Added Bonus

At the end of the day, to save time and update your look for evening, don’t completely start over - just sweep smoky eyeshadow around the eyes, a little shimmer on the tops of your cheekbones and a more dramatic lip color.

Now, what’s your favorite beauty shortcut?

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Meltdown in the US

This time however, with the economy in meltdown (falling to pieces here in New York City) and because I am supporting a mid-level manager, it is highly likely that I will lose my job. Other New York-based media companies recently announced that they are folding magazines, cutting budgets and eliminating jobs. Also last Wednesday, the morning we were all celebrating Obama’s win, the mayor of New York City announced that he would be eliminating one thousand government jobs to recover the budget deficit. There seems to be no safe haven for anyone anymore.

Over the past few weeks, I realized I’ve been going through a range of emotions, emotions that can spur me to action, send me seething into a rage, or make me want to crawl into the fetal position and hide. Now, of course, I may survive another wave of layoffs, but being complacent, or even hopeful, doesn’t serve to mobilize me, nor does it comfort me. It occurred to me that I’m grieving for a job I love and will probably lose, and that the seven stages of grief, apply for all losses.

Panic

The first inkling I got that my job might be in danger sent me into a tailspin of worry. How will I pay my mortgage, my garage, my insurance, my utilities? I have no one to depend on; no husband, rich uncle, parents. I will lose my home, I’ll be out on the street, a bag lady. How will I find a job with so many other people out of jobs – I’ll never find another one that pays decently – the competition will be brutal. My fantasies spun out of control, each scenario worse than the last.

Action

The next stage that hit mobilized me. I sat down and went though my checkbook, totaling my monthly expenses. I went on the government website to calculate how much unemployment insurance I could qualify for. I met with my Benefits representative and discussed how much severance I could expect to get, whether I could borrow from my 401K or pension plans, and how much my medical insurance would cost me. I calculated how long my savings would last, canceled my cable TV, and my gym membership. The cutback that hurts the most of course - one of the two women whose job training I sponsor in Iraq is due to graduate at the end of November, and sadly, I wont be able to sponsor another.

Anger

It’s not fair! Why me? Why the magazine I work for? I interviewed extensively with many staff members before I took this position. I knew the magazine was a big success and I had a great chance of never having to look for another job. It’s not fair! I don’t want to start all over again. I’m too old to have to compete with twenty-somethings. It’s not fair!

Surrender

This stage made me question the reasons why I might lose my job. It’s true, I’d been pretty complacent in my position over the last few years. Was there some big change that I’d been hesitant to make in my life? Was I not contributing enough to bring more good into the world? Was I not being a good role model? Since my office is a short walk from St. Patrick’s Cathedral, I spent a few lunchtimes at Mass, comforted by the familiar rituals from my childhood. I decided that I’d let “Thy will be done” be my mantra, surrendering to the bigger plan that my Higher Power might ultimately have for me.

Resourcefulness

This stage caused me to think about alternate sources of income and examine where I could cut corners. I’d long been toying with using my background in the beauty business to offer educational classes to women on how to navigate the cosmetic counter. Maybe it was time to put that plan into practice. I could sell my no-longer-played saxophone. I could sell some books on Amazon. And, if I became really desperate, I’d even consider selling my car, well-used but with pretty low mileage. I could plan my meals more wisely, faithfully turn off the lights in my home when not in use, forego weekly restaurant dinners with friends, and attend half-price movie screenings, pay-what-you-wish museum days, and author readings at bookstores. I updated my resume and started sending it to all likely postings and contacts.

Sadness

Change makes me sad. I know in many cases change can be good, but it still makes me sad. My life path is about to take a big turn, and I am sad about leaving the road I’ve been traveling for a long time now. My friends and family are wonderfully supportive, saying they’re sure that a better opportunity will present itself (how can they be so unanimously sure?), but I still reserve the right to be sad about what I’m leaving behind.

Acceptance

I have no control over what will happen. I have performed this job to the best of my ability, and even if I were to be ingratiatingly sweet and obsequious it will not affect whether my job is eliminated. Working more hours won’t help either. Throwing myself on the mercy of management wont do a bit of good. As one colleague said, “The decision is business, not personal.” So in time, comes the calm of accepting that I have no way of influencing the decision.

So now what happens…i wait in stage eight, Patience.

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In my former life as a new product developer for various cosmetic companies, it was my job to evaluate competitor’s products to see what was good, bad, or could be improved upon in a new formulation. Over the course of a year, I would try hundreds of products, and I formed a notable prejudice for certain favorites. Although I’m no longer actively employed in that specific area of the beauty biz, old habits die hard and I still try lots of new products with an appraising eye. Here (in no particular order) are ten of my current highly biased can’t-live-without products.

1. That’s Rich Skin Softening Face Cleanser by Grassroots
   When evaluating creams, product developers often refer to “cushion.” Cushion refers to the density of the product and how it cushions the hands when you begin to rub the product into your skin. The more cushion a product has, the richer and creamier it is, and the more enjoyable to use. That’s Rich Cleanser has substantial cushion, melting eye makeup and comforting skin with olive oil, cocoa butter and soothing botanical extracts. I also love the fact that even though it contains all these rich ingredients, it still rinses off easily.
2. Maybelline Great Lash Mascara
   A classic product (in the pink & green tube) that I’ve been using for years; this is simply the best mascara. All those other companies can fool with various brushes, wands, fibres and even the diameter of the opening of the mascara tube, but they will never approach the perfection of this product. And priced at only about $4 US a tube!
3. Johnson & Johnson Softlotion 24-hour Moisturizer
   I’ve always been a big fan of baby products because of how gentle they are. If they are mild enough for a baby’s tender skin, they must be good enough for an adult, especially one with sensitive skin. That’s one of the reasons I love this lotion. Another reason is its “playtime.” Playtime refers to the amount of time it takes for the lotion to absorb into your skin. This lotion has minimal playtime with maximum results. Your skin will feel well-moisturized and supple without a sticky afterfeel. It also has a very low fragrance level, so it will not interfere with your favorite spritz.
4. Neutrogena Visibly Firm Face Lotion SPF-20
   A workhorse of a daytime moisturizer, this reasonably-priced lotion has two key qualities that are crucial for a facial product – it is fragrance-free and it has sunscreen (and enough of it – above the bare minimum of SPF-15). A convenient pump bottle maintains the integrity of the product by not introducing bacteria into the package.
5. Sephora Smoothing Primer
   A great new invention in the beauty biz is a product that is applied between your moisturizer and your foundation to form a protective barrier that actually minimizes and smoothes tiny lines and imperfections. This lightweight gel helps your foundation glide on evenly and look picture perfect. Use sparingly after moisturizing – a little goes a long way!
6. Neutrogena Lip Nutrition Honey Rescue Balm
   Looks, smells, and tastes like honey in a rich healing balm for your lips. Use alone or over your favorite lip color for great shine. Yummy!
7. Purse-size Kabuki Brush
   Throw out that bacteria breeding-ground known as a powder-puff! Whether you use pressed or loose, translucent or shaded face powder, get rid of the foam or fabric puff that comes with it and upgrade to this fluffy, fabulous finishing brush. Dip your brush in loose powder or stroke it across the pressed compact, then tap it or blow on it to get rid of the excess. Apply the powder in circular motions, and you will get a finish of airbrushed flawlessness. Plus, it’s small enough to tuck in your handbag.
8. The Thymes Fig Leaf & Cassis Foaming Milk Bath
   Everyone who knows me, knows that I have a sensitive nose. Maybe it’s from my years spent evaluating fragrances, but I have a finely tuned sense of smell. (My mom once had to move a bowl of potpourri into another room so I could enjoy dinner without the distracting fragrance.) That’s why I adore this delicious treat – the fragrance is as indulgent as the tubful of creamy, extravagant bubbles that this little envelope of riches will produce (available in candles and shower gel, too). Kiss your stress goodbye!
9. Back to Basics Green Tea Normalizing Shampoo
   I hate to ruin your illusions, but shampoos are all made of basically the same chemicals – water and detergents (called surfactants). Oh, sure, there are fancy ingredients that manufacturers add, but in reality, the extras are added in only trace amounts and don’t really impact the quality of the product. The bottom line is cleaning your hair. And they all do that. So what’s left? The fragrance! This shampoo has the most delicious green, herbal fragrance that makes me feel like I’m showering in a forest in the springtime. It’s also color-safe – a plus because the detergents are a bit milder.
10. L’Oreal Infallible Never Fail Lip Color
    Wow, this is an amazing product! In a little compact mirrored box, you have a small wand of lip color and a lip sealant. Apply the lip color, and within a minute, it “gloms” onto your lips, creating wonderfully durable color. Apply the clear lipstick “sealant” for a soft, semi-lustrous shine, and you won’t have to reapply for hours. Wonderful product, innovative package, economical price!

I’d love to know about your top products, so leave a comment with your recommendations.

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When buying skincare or cosmetics, does more expensive mean better product? Not necessarily. Here are some guidelines on what is worth spending money on and where you can afford to be a cheapskate when shopping at the cosmetics counter.

1. Moisturizer – Save

A moisturizer is basically a mixture of oil and water; and for daytime, sunscreen is added to the mix. Yes, there are lots of trace additives—fruit or vegetable extracts, vitamins, minerals and various ingredients that claim to firm wrinkles, reverse aging and “lift” skin. (Sorry, friends, once you’ve aged, there is no going back. Sunscreen is the most effective anti-aging product you can use.)

The best you can hope for in a moisturizer is (A) that it is the right amount of moisture for your skin type, (B) that it smells and feels nice when you apply it so you will use it regularly, and (C) that it’s within your budget. There are hundreds of wonderful, affordable moisturizers that you can find in your pharmacy, health food store, even grocery store. No need to spend a lot of money here. Another rule of thumb—if it has ingredients you can eat (i.e. honey, carrots, vitamin C), it’s healthy for your face.

2. Foundation – Spend

The best foundation matches your skin tone perfectly and improves the appearance of your skin’s texture. Because most bargain brands don’t allow you to test the shade directly on your skin, it is never guaranteed that the color in the bottle, jar or compact will be identical to your skin.

That’s why it is better to go to a department store or cosmetic boutique where you can try the actual product on your skin. (The best place to test is along your jaw line – apply a small amount there and if you can’t see where the product ends and your skin begins, that’s a perfect match.) You can also choose from several different finishes (dewy, natural or matte) and degrees of coverage (sheer, light, medium or full coverage). I’m a big believer in using the lightest form in the warmer months and more coverage when it’s cooler, so you may be able to choose the same brand’s shade across the different forms whether you prefer a liquid, cream, mineral powder or “whipped” cream.

3. Powder/Blush – Save

Face powder and powder blush are made up of talc (as in talcum powder), pigments and binders that hold the “cake” together. The more expensive versions may have fragrance, finer particles of pigment and some of the ingredients mentioned above that are added to moisturizers. You are also paying for packaging, marketing, advertising and the supermodel or celebrity who is under contract to endorse the product. Since all powder or blush is basically the same, why not choose the shade you prefer and that is flattering on you?

4. Eyeshadow – Save

For powder eyeshadow, see the same rules above (3). As far as cream or liquid eyeshadow, research has made much progress in formulating products that are virtually crease-proof, so the same caveat goes for choosing a color that looks pretty and compliments your eyes.

5. Eye or Lip Pencils – Save

There are only two manufacturers of high quality cosmetic pencils in the world and they are both located in Germany. Trust me on this, these two companies make pencils for the least expensive cosmetic companies all the way up to the most exclusive designer lines.

Again, minor variations in formula and packaging may occur (bargain versions may be shrink-wrapped; the costlier pencils may be boxed and have metal tips, caps, and “smudgers”). But if you select a pencil whose shade and cost you like and it’s stamped “Made in Germany,” you are getting the same excellent quality as a pencil that costs many times as much.

6. Lipstick – Spend

Okay, I’m a little bit of a lipstick fanatic. It’s probably the item that I change most often of my makeup products. So I always have a wardrobe of lipsticks and glosses that I use in rotation. Because lipstick has been around for years, research & development departments have really come a long way in formulating lip colors that can be long-lasting, glossy, matte, sheer or shimmery. Because lipstick is the one item I can politely pull out of my bag to reapply after a meal or during the day, I like the indulgence of applying a beautiful shade housed in a precious tube. And, since lip colors follow fashion, the exclusive brands have the newest shades sooner. In addition, just like foundation, I think it’s important to try before you buy, and that’s something you’re not able to do with a mass market brand.

Today, you can find high-quality, cutting-edge shades, products and formulas in many prices ranges, so it’s easy to stay within your budget while staying beautiful.

. . . . . . .

Photo courtesy of willgame

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Say goodbye to summer, not to sunscreen. In fact, your skin is exposed to more ambient sunshine and damaging rays that happen day to day, than it is during a tropical winter vacation. So goodbye summer actually means…hello sunscreen.

During a week at the beach, you could be spending from 6 to 8 hours a day exposed to ultraviolet rays. And although you may be dutiful about sun protection, sunscreen isn’t a blank check for spending unlimited time in the sun.

But even more significantly, the time spent walking from your home to the bus or train station, in your car, opposite your office window, walking the dog, running errands, even sitting under indoor lighting can add up to considerable cumulative exposure. Not only sand and water reflect rays, snow and concrete do, too. And even if the sun isn’t shining, your skin is absorbing the ultraviolet radiation that penetrates the clouds and can cause permanent skin damage like fine lines, rough texture, dark spots. This can lead eventually to more serious problems like skin cancer (one of the fastest growing cancers in North America).

That’s why wearing sunscreen on all exposed skin should be part of your daily grooming routine, all year long. Many wonderful scientific advances have ensured that modern sunscreens are safe and efficient. The old-fashioned sticky white zinc-oxide cream is now a thing of the past – microfine particles are completely invisible to the naked eye.

It is easy to find a daytime moisturizer containing sunscreen that’s light, non-greasy and unscented, like Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer and Clinique Superdefense SPF 25 Age Defense Moisturizer.

Experts agree that a minimum SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of 15 is good; 30 is even better. And nowadays, many liquid, cream and mineral foundations contain sunscreens. Although applying a moisturizer and a foundation that both have an SPF of 15 will not add up to an SPF of 30, you will be ensuring an extra measure of protection for your skin.

4 Sunscreen Rules

1. Apply the right type – read package labels to find the moisturizer and foundation that are ideal for your complexion.
2. Apply early – at least 20 minutes before going outdoors – to allow the sunscreen to “bind” to skin cells.
3. Apply enough and apply thoroughly (don’t forget to moisturize your hands and neck).
4. Apply every day – even on rainy or snowy days when you don’t think you need it.

And finally, if you truly can’t live without a healthy “summer glow,” there are plenty of self-tanning products and bronzing cosmetics that will help you fake a natural-looking tan to rival the real thing.

Photo courtesy of Lodewijk van den Broek

. . . . . . .

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